High Contrast Mode:

a close-up of a store aisle

Martinizing’s Ultimate Thrifting Guide

Thrifting is thrilling! Scouring the racks for that one special garment and finding a diamond in the rough can be so rewarding, especially when you can give it a new life! But knowing what fabrics hold up over time and which stains or tears can be fixed will help you make the most out of your thrifting adventure.

Martinizing Cleaners' Ultimate Thrifting Guide can help you navigate the world of secondhand clothing:

Check Out This Interview Where Kyle Panther Talks About Thrifting

Check Out This Podcast Where Rachel Marlowe Talks About the Ultimate Thrifting Guide

Ultimate Thrifting Guide

Prepare for Your Thrift Store Adventure

When you walk into a thrift store, it's easy to feel overwhelmed with how many options you have. But don't worry! Here are a few key tips to keep in mind as you start browsing:

  1. Designer Items Need Special Care
    Designer pieces are typically made from high-quality materials, but they may also be more delicate and require professional cleaning. If you come across a designer item, treat it with care and consider taking it to a professional cleaner to maintain its beauty.
  2. Know Your Fabrics
    Each fabric has its quirks—some need professional cleaning, while others can be managed at home. Having a basic understanding of fabrics will help you choose items that are easier to care for (more on this below).
  3. Avoid Trying on Clothes Before Cleaning Them
    We don't know where thrift store clothing has been stored, tried on by others, or when it was last cleaned. As a helpful tip, if you must try something on, wear a thin layer of clothing underneath so the item doesn't come into direct contact with your skin.

Know When It's Worth Restoring

Not every piece you find will be salvageable and some clothing may be too far gone. Remember this:

Some wear and tear is normal. It's secondhand clothing, after all! But try to avoid pieces that are excessively worn, frayed, or stained beyond repair.

When in doubt, bring in the experts. Professional cleaners can often do wonders on stained or damaged clothing. However, there are limits, so it's good to know when to walk away from an item.

Here are some easy visual cues to see if an item is worth restoring:

Inspect Seams, Stitches, and Stains

As you sift through the racks, pay close attention to the seams, stitches, and stains of any garment you're interested in. These are the key indicators of whether a piece is worth the purchase:

Loose Stitching
High-end garments are often made by hand. You may notice what we call "loose stitching" referring to the spacing between stitches which may be close to an eighth of an inch. Remember, a person can't get stitching as tight as a machine would. This handmade garment has excellent value at original purchase. However, over time, that stitching may become even looser. This is not a problem. A dry cleaner or tailor should be able to strengthen the stitching.

Tight Stitching
Tight stitching means that a piece of clothing was made by a machine and is more likely built to last in your washer and dryer.

Torn Seams
Torn seams shouldn't present a problem. Your dry cleaner or tailor can handle this and shouldn't deter you from a piece that you really like. However, if the tear is not on a seam, it's likely unrepairable.

Stains
Some stains can be repaired - some are permanent. Yellow stains or white dots on certain fabrics can't be repaired. The same goes for discoloration under the armpit. One of the challenges, even for dry cleaners, is when a stain has settled into a garment that has been washed and dried numerous times. We can give a try, but it may not come out.

Now that you've inspected the clothing item's seams, stitches, and stains, it's time to do a little more digging into the fabrics you're dealing with.

Refer to Your Fabric Cheat Sheet

Fabrics play a big role in how well a thrifted item will last and how much care it needs. You can tell what fabric an item is usually by looking at the label on the piece. The label will even tell you how to best clean it. Here's a quick look into the most common fabrics you'll encounter while thrifting:

Cotton - Cotton is fairly durable and extremely easy to maintain, usually at home. One of the most notable signs of aging in cotton is when it loses its shape. You may notice that a garment is stretched out or "baggy." This usually can't be fixed.

Denim - Denim fades and shrinks with every wash, even if handled by a dry cleaner. If you find a denim piece that fits a little snug, know that it's only going to get smaller. Also, remember that any fading is permanent. Denim can be cleaned at home just fine.

Leather - Leather and other animal skins are notoriously difficult to restore. If you notice cracks, tears, or scratches on a leather piece, it's best to avoid it or take that into account when purchasing. Leather and other animal skins should be cleaned professionally.

Linen - Linen is one of the most fragile fabrics. It typically requires dry cleaning after each wear. It will shrink quickly if dried at home. Stains can be particularly stubborn in linen, and discoloration cannot always be fixed. The strength of the fabric can vary from item to item, depending on how tight the stitching is.

Polyester - Nicknamed "the invincible fabric," polyester is built to stand the test of time. It's wrinkle-resistant, relatively stain-proof, and will maintain its shape after multiple washes. Be wary of ironing or using high heat on polyester. As a synthetic fiber, it can release toxic fumes if not dealt with properly. Polyester is also more prone to hold onto odors, which can be difficult to wash out - even for a dry cleaner. Other than that, polyester is fine to put straight in your washer and dryer.

Rayon - Rayon is a delicate fabric that typically needs regular dry cleaning or can only be hand washed. The biggest challenges with rayon are wrinkles and stains. Wrinkles can be handled with the proper care; however, you likely won't be able to remove a splash or spill stain from this fabric.

Silk - Silk is a finicky fabric. It's one of few fabrics that can rot and it can also easily be discolored, which is permanent. Before you buy a silk garment, stretch it a little and see if it falls apart. If it does, it's rotted. Silk garments definitely need to be professionally cleaned.

Wool - Wool is one of the most durable and easy-to-maintain fabrics you can come across, which means it can easily be cleaned at home. Frays and loose stitching can be easily fixed, but be wary of discoloration, as this tends to be permanent. Moths are also particularly drawn to wool, and holes in a wool piece could be a telltale sign of a moth infestation.

Once you've finally made your purchase, take note of which garments may need extra care. Before you throw that thrifted piece you love in the wash, take it to a Martinizing Cleaners location and let them bring it back to life!

Good luck with your thrifting journey!